Hut-to-Hut Hiking in Switzerland
The Swiss mountain hut system is one of my very favorite things about this country, and I think a hut overnight something everyone should do at least once.
But, I also know that the whole process can feel intimidating if it’s your first time. So here’s a primer, with everything I know about staying at a Swiss mountain hut.
About Swiss huts
Swiss huts are essentially alpine hostels for hikers and mountaineers, and yes, it’s just as amazing as it sounds (for anyone who likes hiking or mountaineering, at the very least!). For a relatively reasonable price, at a mountain hut you get a dorm bed, dinner, breakfast, and best of all - sunsets and sunrises over the Alps. Or ok, maybe the best part is that you get all the benefits of staying in the mountains without having to lug any of the heavy camping gear.
There are literally huts throughout the entirety of the Swiss Alps, some easy to reach and some in unimaginably remote spots. It’s a truly incredible system, and a really special way to experience the mountains.
The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) manages most of the huts, although there are privately owned huts as well. You can find information about each SAC hut and various approach routes on their website. Reservations are necessary, and you’ll need to book months in advance for Saturday night stays during peak season. Lots of huts also have their own websites, which are useful to check out before you go. In general, it costs between 70-90 CHF per night to stay, which includes half-board (dinner and breakfast) and a dorm bed.
About the experience
Swiss huts are very social and communal. I find that everyone is cheery and in good-spirits, with that slight touch of red-cheeked delirium you get from spending a long active day outside.
Once you arrive, you leave your hiking boots in the mud room, and slip into some house shoes (usually Crocs!). From late afternoon onward, people begin to congregate in the common areas, or the terrace if it’s warm. Drinks like beer, wine, tea and coffee are available for purchase. Dinner is at a set time, and is generally served family-style. You’ll get a hearty three-course meal, designed to refuel you after a long day in the mountains: a starter (soup or salad), a main (they can accommodate different dietary restrictions if requested in advance), and a dessert. If there are leftovers, the staff will come around and offer seconds. I’ve never gone hungry. Sure, some hut food is better than others, but I’ve found that I’m so ravenous after a day of hiking that everything tastes good. And it really feels luxurious to have a warm, home-cooked meal!
After dinner, people normally hang out in the common area to chat or play card games. Sometimes you get extra-lucky with an extraordinary sunset or a herd of visiting ibex, and on a clear night, once it gets dark you can see the Milky Way. It’s lights out by 10pm, but if I’m being honest, I’m normally reading in bed way before then.
For sleeping, the hut provides blankets and pillows, and you bring your own sleeping bag liner that serves as a sheet. Dorm styles can vary a lot. The classic dormitories are essentially one large mattress, with pillows at the head and folded blankets at the foot of each marked sleeping spot, capable of sleeping 6, 8, 12, or even more people. Others are bunk-style, or have partitions in between each space. But no matter the set-up, prepare to get quite cozy with your neighbors. I never get the best sleep, but it’s all part of the experience!
Bathrooms will also vary, but all huts will at least have clean, simple shared facilities: toilets and sinks with cold running water. I’ve never showered at a hut, even if they provide one (for a fee).
Breakfast is early, around 7:00 or 7:30am, and is very simple: bread, cheese, jam, muesli, coffee, tea. One hut served eggs, and I was so excited! But that’s definitely the exception, not the rule. And then everyone is packed and back out on the trail by about 9am.
P.S. All of the above refers to serviced or guarded huts, meaning they have a warden and staff on site. There are also “un-guarded” huts, which are self-service.
Packing List
Here’s what I pack. It’s everything I would normally bring for a day mountain hike, and:
Cash
Sleeping bag liner & pillowcase
Pajamas
Fresh underwear, socks, shirt, and sports bra for the next day
Basic toiletries (including body wipes so I can give myself a faux shower)
Small camping/microfiber towel (not necessary, but I like to have one)
Ear plugs and eye mask
Headlamp
External battery
Kindle
Extra water bottle if you want “marching tea”(kind of like a warm punch)
Hut Roundup
Now comes the hardest part - narrowing down what hut to go to!
To find a hut, the easiest way is to use the “Hut Finder” section of the SAC website to find a hut in your desired area, and use information from SAC + the hut website to plan your approach and descent. I’d also suggest mapping your route in the SwissTopo app as well.
Here is a sampling of the huts I’ve stayed in over the years - the ones I’ve like the most are starred. My favorite type of hut hikes go via a mountain pass, where you start in one valley, stay in a hut near the top of the pass, and then hike down the other side.